Case trimmer/ chamfer ect.

[Cr0ck1]

What case trimmer do all of you use? I was looking at the lee that has the pull string but i would want something i can pit a drill on or turn by hand.

[swampbird]

http://leeprecision.com/case-conditioni ... ing-tools/

[Cr0ck1]

Link to one you recommend? Just making an after january list.

[swampbird]

go back up one...edited my post

[swampbird]

I use this one on my 6.8 brass......i love it

http://www.littlecrowgunworks.com/wft.html

[Cr0ck1]

Interesting.

[swampbird]

On the 3006 I load 50 at a time so i just use the lee.....but on the 6.8 I've prepared as many as 500 at sitting, that's when you want more speed, or you will go nuts trimming brass.

Now if you want to go all in try this one....http://www.giraudtool.com/prod02.htm

And Dillon makes a nice one ....http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/ ... se_Trimmer

[Cr0ck1]

Expensive. Id just get a smaller one and attach a small motor to it.

[Cr0ck1]

Ok question. On a 30.06. The full measure from top of neck to bottom outside of casing is said to be by spec, 2.494

I measured mine after resize and it comes out to 2.489. So thats a tad bit smaller then recommended and i didn't even case trim.

So how much off is a worry point?

[swampbird]

2.494 is your max case length...you can trim to 0.02 under the max.

Good Stuff on this site....http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/20 ... -case.html

[Cr0ck1]

So my measurement was good? Mime seems like its .005 under.

[swampbird]

yep...your good to go

[nachogrande]

I use a lyman hand crank mdl that I removed the handle and put a drill on, been working well since the 80s. bushings are starting to loosen up and slide some. wouldn't be surprised if I could get a new one out of them. look for one that can be mounted to your bench, and holds the cartridge, so all you have to do is work the drill. also be aware that some/most have pilots that are the correct size for inside the case mouth. you want to find a trimmer that includes a variety of them, instead of buying each one separately. loading manuals will show the trim to length. just be aware the shorter the brass the further OUT you have to seat the bullet for the correct oal. and deeper seated bullets lead to increased pressures. as they ALL say approach max loads with caution. this is where having many diff manuals pay off, most will show diff max loads for the same powder and bullet wt so you have to look at several and decide which one you feel safe with. and old manuals are good, never throw one away. if you can find one that uses the same gun you have as their test gun it's a big +1. if you're loading for a 20" bbl and their info is for a 26"bbl universal receiver, not so good. as I'm sure your seeing buying everything new and piece by piece gets expensive, the reason I recommend buying a used entire set up from someone who is getting out of the game and get everything from soup to nuts already set up. some time savers/needed items to add to your shopping list: a hammer type bullet puller, a powder measure micrometer (gives you #'s for each powder wt, so you can go back to that wt quickly), a dremmel with small wire bit to clean primer pockets (saves a ton of time),a large plastic salad bowl and plastic strainer with fairly large holes to sift media from cases/ lubing and general use. there will be a lot more. reloadersnest.com has some serious loaders there and good load info by caliber. also keep records. I use index cards by caliber, so when I want to load something I go to my box and get all the info I need, powder measure setting,primer type, everyone I ever made and how they worked etc, extremely usefull and often better than the manuals.

[Cr0ck1]

All good info, thx